The fertile fields of Picardy have seen more than their share of battles: After the Romans conquered it came the Normans, then Charlemagne. It was a center of activity during the Hundred Years' War, and more recently suffered heavy damage in both World Wars. The first World War saw the town Cathedral (established in the seventh century) suffer catastrophic damage. The home reputed to be Calvin's birthplace also suffered irreparable harm. Both buildings (and much of the rest of the ancient city) were reconstructed to restore the traditional Neo-Gothic style to this quaint village.
Which is all preface to saying that Noyon is a small place with a big past. And I mean small. You can walk every street in town (many of them are historically preserved or restored) in about an hour. There are no public restrooms to be found -- a common problem in Paris as well. I did happen to witness a guy in a park wander over to what I thought were restrooms only to see him urinate on the side of a building. Another aspect of small town life in France is that the entire city, with the exception of restaurants and the cathedral, shuts down between Noon and 2 p.m. Which isn't good when you have left the restaurant and a thunderstorm hits.
But the big past, not the small town, is the reason for the pilgrimage. The cathedral is an impressive religious site in its own right. It hosts a placard listing the name of every presiding priest since St. Medard in the early sixth century. Charlemagne and Hugh Capet are said to have been coronated on that site (in a predecessor building). It hosts (to this day) the baptismal font in which the infant John Calvin was received into the visible church.
But I didn't go there for the cathedral, although it was a pleasant surprise. I didn't even go because of the Musee John Calvin located there (a good thing, since the museum is, to put it mildly, a dud). I went because Noyon is the place where John Calvin was born and raised. His experiences there laid the groundwork for his eventual desire to reform Catholicism.
And I learned something about pilgrimages: you don't make them in order to "get something" out of the experience. You make them to bear a witness to the past in order to be a witness for the future. And I bore witness to the miraculous grace of God that can make a John Calvin rise from such a town as this. As it turns out, the Protestant movement in Noyon didn't last past the St. Bartholomew's day massacre less than a decade after Calvin's death. In my tour of the city, I could not find a single Protestant church today.
Noyon has many things of which to be proud in its historic past, the birth of John Calvin among them. But to judge by the town today, I think they wouldn't put Calvin's birth at the top of the list. I would. And I went. And I witnessed. And that's what it's all about.
But the big past, not the small town, is the reason for the pilgrimage. The cathedral is an impressive religious site in its own right. It hosts a placard listing the name of every presiding priest since St. Medard in the early sixth century. Charlemagne and Hugh Capet are said to have been coronated on that site (in a predecessor building). It hosts (to this day) the baptismal font in which the infant John Calvin was received into the visible church.
But I didn't go there for the cathedral, although it was a pleasant surprise. I didn't even go because of the Musee John Calvin located there (a good thing, since the museum is, to put it mildly, a dud). I went because Noyon is the place where John Calvin was born and raised. His experiences there laid the groundwork for his eventual desire to reform Catholicism.
And I learned something about pilgrimages: you don't make them in order to "get something" out of the experience. You make them to bear a witness to the past in order to be a witness for the future. And I bore witness to the miraculous grace of God that can make a John Calvin rise from such a town as this. As it turns out, the Protestant movement in Noyon didn't last past the St. Bartholomew's day massacre less than a decade after Calvin's death. In my tour of the city, I could not find a single Protestant church today.
Noyon has many things of which to be proud in its historic past, the birth of John Calvin among them. But to judge by the town today, I think they wouldn't put Calvin's birth at the top of the list. I would. And I went. And I witnessed. And that's what it's all about.