Catching Up

With the arrival on Friday in Edinburgh of my wife Liz, the "pilgrimage" part of my sabbatical has become less about "reflection" and more about "renewal." The rain has continued, with little interruption. Even with umbrellas and rain jackets, we have gotten soaked at least three times. Now I know why the Scots have such a reputation for dour and gloom.

Sunday, we worshiped at the Cathedral of St. Giles here in Edinburgh, where Knox was pastor after the Scottish revolution, and where a full-size statue of him is to be found. It was a rather un-Knoxian service. The preacher followed the lectionary (rather than preaching through books of the Bible as Calvin modeled), and even then, since the lectionary "had nothing in it" (!), deviated to discuss the feast of Mary Magdalene in a sermon that was virtually pointless. We then partook of Holy Communion, gathering around the table in shifts to receive the loaf and

common cup. As I have worshiped in gothic and romanesque cathedrals, I understand why Protestants (especially Reformed Protestants) have gravitated to simpler, auditorium-like worship spaces. While the cathedrals are beautiful visually and provide beautiful acoustics for acapella singing or acoustic instruments, it is virtually impossible to hear the spoken (or preached) word in them.

On Monday, the best weather day, we enjoyed a side trip to Perth, an ancient capital of Scotland, where in 1559 at the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, John Knox preached his famous sermon "On Idolatry." The result was that the people became so taken up that they ended up stoning the priest and stripping the sanctuary, nearly destroying it. As time went on, the church was divided into three sections, with a different sect utilizing each portion. The cathedral has since been restored to its earlier design, although, as in most Scottish churches, attendance is abysmally low. The pastor serves a yoked parish with a church in Dundee, and only a portion of the sanctuary is used for worship.

Our host and guide on Monday was Ian Scott, a local artist and the father-in-law of my cousin David Saperstein. He provided local color and insight. We also went to Dunkeld, on the river Tay, where the cathedral is located in one of the most picturesque settings in all of Scotland. As in Perth, the preaching of the Protestant message led

to an uprising of disastrous proportions, and the cathedral has not fully recovered. The incitement to violence that was caused by the preaching of the Reformers causes me to wonder how much of the preaching was truly motivated by theology and how much by politics.

Tuesday included a pilgrimage of a more traditional sort: a hike up Arthur's seat, the mount which overlooks Edinburgh. Arthur's seat is a "high place" of ancient significance, going back to pre-Christian days. We took the "long way" to the top, passing the Salisbury crags and ascending a rather steep stairway before the final ascent. There were many others on the route, despite the weather. On the way down, we stopped at the ruins of an ancient abbey overlooking the palace of Holyrood. It was good to engage in some more strenuous "pilgrimage" activity.

Today is a quiet day; tomorrow a tour of lochs and castles. The pilgrimage portion of my sabbatical is nearing an end. I will need to take some time to reflect on how this experience has changed me, and how it has enhanced my understanding of the cultural, theological, and historical background to our Presbyterian system of government. We leave Edinburgh on Friday and spend some time in London before heading back to the States. Thanks for reading!